Organic, biodynamic and natural wine… What’s the difference and all the fuss about?

With organic and biodynamic practices becoming commonplace for the fresh produce, household products and skincare we buy, it’s little wonder that they’re gathering momentum in the wine industry. But it gets a bit tricky, as the everyday consumer, to understand what these practices mean when we’re purchasing a bottle of wine. Throw the term ‘natural’ into the mix and you may well feel completely overwhelmed.

Does it mean that I’m getting ‘healthier’ or more sustainable wine?

Am I paying a premium because of the practices used?

Does the wine taste any better or different?

Is it a temperamental or unsafe bet?

Am I hipster enough to get away with ordering it?

While the answer to the last of these questions is simple - Don’t worry about it! Order and drink whatever you like! What’s even hipster nowadays, anyway? – we’ve tried to demystify organic, biodynamic and natural wines for you below. 

Organic Wine

Although there are different requirements for organic certification across the winemaking world, the general rule is that an organic wine is made from grapes that have been grown without the use of artificial or synthetic chemical products, effectively prohibiting a wide range of pesticides, herbicides, fungicides and fertilisers in the vineyard.

Organic farmers work with nature to ward off weeds and bugs, for example by: 

• planting cover crops to provide a habitat for beneficial insects

• using manures and natural composts for fertilisation

• having small sheep graze between vine rows. 

As a self-regulating, natural eco-system, an organic vineyard is essentially able to combat problems itself, thereby eliminating the need for manmade, and possibly harmful, chemicals.

Thankfully, truly organic wines are easy to spot because they have to be certified. Certification is usually provided by an independent accredited third party organisation (such as Australian Certified Organic, Soil Association, USDA Organic, ECOCERT etc). For my fellow law nerds out there, there is a raft of regulations and standards relating to organic winemaking (such as EU regulation 203/2012 on the implementation of EU regulation 834/2008 on rules governing organic wines).

But, as mentioned above, organic in one country can mean something very different in another. Perhaps the key difference is that in the US, wineries must not use any sulphur dioxide in their winemaking. This is a preservative, used since Roman times, that prevents oxidisation and refermentation in the bottle. In the EU, by contast, sulphur dioxide at particular levels is permitted in organic wine (30-50% lower than the limits for conventional wine).

Biodynamic Wine 

An interesting way of considering the difference between organic and biodynamic farming is that organic is about what grape growers don’t do to the fields, vines and grapes, and biodynamic is more about what grape growers do to them.

The biodynamic approach derives from the writings of Rudolph Steiner and sees the vineyard as an ecological whole. While it incorporates a number of principles from organic agriculture (i.e. no chemical intervention), it differs in its belief that farming can be attuned to the spiritual forces of the cosmos.

Yes, this may seem a little kooky, especially when we start to talk about biodynamic composting, where cow horns are filled with special compost preparations and the contents of which, after being buried for a time, is used to make a ‘tea’ to fertilise the vineyard.

Apparently you can also extend into the biodynamics of wine drinking, which suggests that you schedule your tastings on either flower or fruit days - see the Wine Folly article, Will a fruit day make my wine taste better?

Biodynamic agriculture, including wine, is largely certified by the US-based organisation, Demeter. However, it’s true that many smaller vineyards may not have paid for biodynamic or organic certification and may therefore label their wines with ‘produced with no pesticides’ or the like.

Natural Wine

‘Natural’ wines are a bit of wildcard, and it’s difficult to find a reliable and precise definition of what a natural wine truly is. A simple way of thinking about it, is that there is minimal intervention for both the farmer and the winemaker.

While organic and biodynamic practices focus on viticulture and how grapes are grown, natural wines look not only at viticulture, but also how the grapes are transformed into wine. While there are unofficial definitions and codes of practice, as yet there is no formal regulation. It is therefore self-styled, with producers differing in their definitions and practices. Philosophically, there’s a preference for organic and/or biodynamic farming, but this isn’t a requirement.

There is no fining and minimal filtration prior to bottling, which can make natural wines look cloudy and smell a bit funky. Sulphites are generally permitted, but again, are lower than conventional wines. As a general rule, they should also be drunk sooner.

Fast facts and top tips 

• Organic and biodynamic wines are not always natural wines and vice versa.

• Organic and biodynamic vineyards tend to be healthier and more vibrant, especially for the longer term. Vineyard workers are also less exposed to potentially harmful chemicals.

• Organic, biodynamic and natural wines are not necessarily always vegan or vegetarian-friendly.

• Organic, biodynamic and natural wines are generally lower in sulphites than conventional wines, and may be (almost) sulphite-free (no added sulphur wines may still contain naturally occurring sulphur, as a result of the fermentation process). For those who are sensitive to sulphites, low-sulphite wines can provide new options.

• Natural wines tend to be vibrant and colourful, and may be lower in alcohol.

• Natural wines are made in small productions and usually at higher prices. Organic and biodynamic practices are becoming more mainstream, and therefore the mark-up may not be significant.

• Retaliating against the rigid hierarchy of conventional wines, natural wines have attracted a new generation of wine drinkers at odds with the fine wine scene. But it’s interesting that natural wine cliques have arisen, echoing their conventional counterparts.

• Our view is that organic, biodyanmic and natural wines have created a more vibrant market for wine drinkers, and it’s a lot of fun to experiment in this space at the moment. Our biggest tip is to taste around. You may dislike the first natural wine you try, and love the second. You might not see much of a difference in the organic wine that you’re drinking, but might learn a lot about the philosophy of the grape grower or winemaker, especially if you get the chance to chat one-on-one with them.

The best organic, biodynamic, and natural wines available in London

If you’re keen to try, some favourites of ours are below (ordered by price)

• Gran Cerdo Tempranillo Gonzalo Grijalba 2018 (organic and natural), available for £9.45 from Farmdrop

• Ducs de Nauves Chateau le Puy 2016 (organic, biodynamic and natural), available for £19.95 from Buon Vino

• Morgon Classique Jean Foillard 2017 (organic and natural), avialable for £21 from Buon Vino

• Querciabella Chianti Classico 2015 (organic and biodynamic), available for £21.95 from Twelve Green Bottles Wine

• Cullen ‘Mangan Vineyard’ Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2016 (organic and biodynamic), available for £22.10 from The Australian Cellar

• Sorrenberg Gamay, Barry & Jan Morey 2016 (organic and biodynamic), available for £26 from Buon Vino

• Felton Road Bannockburn Riesling 2018 (organic and biodynamic), available for £27.50 from Berry Bros & Rudd

• Ochota Barrels I Am The Owl Syrah 2017 (organic), available for £32.60 from The Australian Cellar

• Julian Castagna Adam’s Rib The Red 2015 (biodynamic and natural), available for £35 from Buon Vino

• Pinot Grigio ‘Sivi’ Radikon 2017 (orange wine, biodynamic and natural), available for £36 from Buon Vino

• Pierre Gerbais NV Traditional Method Champagne Cuvée de Reserve (organic and natural), available for £35 from Buon Vino

• Lanson Green Label Organic Brut NV (organic), available for £55 from Laithwaites

Photo credit: Vera Cires