Tahlia March 30, 2019
Price
££££Neighbourhood
HolbornGood for
Date night / Dinner with the parents / Business mealsWebsite
https://noblerot.co.uk/Phone
0207 242 8963Noble Rot, with its deep purple façade, sits unassumingly on one of the prettiest streets in Bloomsbury.
It’s a place that we love, and although we wouldn’t recommend it for those on a tight budget (simply because it’s so easy to go for another glass, another bottle), it celebrates the grape in such a sophisticated, perceptive and fun-loving way that each visit leaves you feeling contented and thoroughly seduced by its charms.
It’s mature but playful, and takes its wine seriously without arrogance or condescension. The front bar is lovely on a quiet afternoon, when there aren’t too many people about and you can perch with your Bourgogne Blanc (or whatever else takes your fancy) at one of the tables by the window. The back restaurant is fabulous for a night out, when you’re in the mood for a darkly-lit space, sumptuous food and bottles of the good stuff.
We arrive on a balmy Saturday afternoon, with a good friend of ours who’s fresh off the plane from Australia, and snuggle into one of the front window booths. As always, the service is excellent - attentive but never pushy. We’re pleasantly surprised when, after asking what vegan nibbles there are, the waitress pops back from the kitchen, saying that the chef can prepare something for us especially (delicious baby broccoli with a mustard sauce, along with olives and some of their to-die-for focaccia). Self-described as “fine Franglaise-style cooking”, Nobel Rot’s food menu places a premium on produce and indulgence.
It’s safe to say that the list of wines by the glass is one of the best you’ll find in London: there are six sparkling/aperitif options, eight white wine options, one rosé option, nine red wine options, and five dessert wine options – most served as either 75ml or 125ml. Not to mention the Coravin wines on offer (the Coravin system allows you to pour wine from a bottle without removing the cork and therefore allows you to preserve the bottle for longer), which usually range between £20 to £60 for a 125ml serving.
It’s an approachable wine list, with the cheapest 125ml serving (the Adega Moncao Vinho Verde 2017 from Portugal) being £4.50. B and I are in a fresh, bubbly mood, so we go for the Hambledon Classic Cuvee NV from Hampshire, and the Michel Gonet Blanc de Blancs ‘Les 3 Terroirs’ 2010 from Champagne. Both are scrumptious, and we take another glass of the Michel Gonet on the next round. Our friend goes for the P&M Rion Bourgogne Rouge ‘Les Bons Batons’ 2016 from Burgundy (a good choice, which she enjoys immensely).
While B and our friend catch-up on old times, I peruse the collection of wines by the bottle. It’s very French-heavy, which is unsurprising, but there are a number of untraditional gems. There are three UK sparklings by the bottle – the aforementioned Hambledon Classic Cuvee NV, the Hambledon Premiere Cuvee NV and an Ancre Hill Blanc de Noirs NV from Monmouthshire in Wales. Last time B and I were here, we tried Ancre Hill’s Pinot Noir by the bottle (out of stock on this visit), which was an attractive cold climate example. There are a number of German, Austrian, Georgian and American wines by the bottle, but I must admit that I’m disappointed that the Australian selection is limited to nine bottles, six of which are very expensive Penfolds Grange from the 80s and 90s. Perhaps we could tempt them to bring some Mac Forbes, Yarra Yering, Fighting Gully Road or Clonakilla into the fold?
For our second round, in addition to the Michel Gonet, B and I choose a glass of the Lyrarakis Assyrtiko 2017 from Crete. It’s lovely and crisp, with strong minerality. Our friend opts for a glass of the Moric Blaufrankisch 2017 from Burgenland, on B’s suggestion (she enjoys this, but prefers the earlier Burgundy).
We chat, nibble, sip and while away the afternoon, leaving just before the sun starts to set. We purchase the latest version of their namesake magazine (always a cracking read for any wine enthusiast), and chat a little more with the staff. I do wish we lived around the corner, but as B rightly points out, that could be quite dangerous for our livers and our wallets. As it is, we try and make it to Noble Rot once every one to two months, and we haven’t been let down yet.
A few tips:
This is a place where you could take your parents, your mates or your lover. While you can easily get a couple of drinks and bites for under £30, it can be quite easy to spend much more!
You can buy Noble Rot’s cheapest red by the glass, the Gran Cerdo Rioja 2017, online on Farmdrop for £8.95 a bottle. It’s great value and perfect for parties.
Some of the best food and wine photography in London can be found on the @noblerotbar Instagram account. Take a peak, and it’ll entice you to wander on down.
When you’re there, do buy a copy of the latest Noble Rot magazine (£9 per issue).
You can’t book the front bar, but you can book for the restaurant (we recommend you do this well in advance for a Friday or Saturday night).
Do be aware that the staircase to the bathrooms downstairs is VERY narrow and steep. You have to be careful going up and down, especially after a drink or two.
Fabulous prints surround the place - quite a feast for the eyes. Look out for the hilarious sketches in the bathrooms too.
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